Jodi News
Falang
| It's certainly difficult to forget that you are a foreigner in Laos, particularly when there are children around. "Falang, falang" they squeal excitedly or in fear as I walk past. Falang means foreigner, and apparently originates from when Laos was invaded. It's generally said in a descriptive, matter of fact way, as in "hey look, there goes a foreigner". Today I heard it a whole lot as I decided to venture out of the city a bit further. I hired a bicycle this morning and just headed into the countryside. I only rode 16km or so, but it was far enough for a "falang" such as myself to be quite entertaining. I stopped at one point to say hello to some children playing in a field. When I produced stickers most of them clustered around me enthusiastically... a couple however, were reduced to tears. Yesterday, a child froze in terror when they saw me and Ron. Literally petrified. I can only imagine how strange we must look to someone who has only seen people with brown skin, brown hair and small brown eyes. Here is Jodi- fair hair, fair skin, and big blue eyes. Freaky with a capital "F". After heading back to town I dropped my bike back in front of my guesthouse and went for lunch. When I went back to collect it some time later I discovered that it had been rented to someone else. That turned out to be a blessing in disguise because it forced me to totally alter my plans. I decided instead to wander down to the Mekong, where it was very enjoyable since the day had become quite hot. I wandered along the bank taking photos and watching the locals coming and going on long boats. I noticed that there was a type of ferry service going from one side to the other and thought "why not?" So I motioned that I wanted to go across and was waved on board. The crossing took all of three minutes, but it took me to a completely different world- one free of other foreigners. Which I can tell you was quite nice. I proceeded to wander around the village, occasionally stopping to say hello to various people curious at my sudden appearance in their lives. One family came down from their house to say hello, and by motioning down the road and repeating the words Namkam suggested I should take a look at a village about 2km down the road. About five children assigned themselves to the adventure and we headed off down the road. En route another guy joined us who could speak English. The place was absolutely isolated and when we arrived I was flocked by inquisitive children and equally inquisitive adults. He took me to his family's home and I was sat up on the huts veranda. Crowds of children came to stare and giggle, apparently having never seen a real life falang before. Nevertheless they managed to find me a bottle of sprite to drink (it's everywhere!). Then my unofficial guide went to get some coconuts which he cut fresh from the tree. The milk was absolutely delicious- much better than anything I've ever tasted before. So after refreshing myself, and amusing the local children we headed up to a local temple. Again cries of "falang, falang" followed me everywhere I went. I could hear some of the children yelling out something else so I asked the guy with me what they were saying. He laughed and said, "Falang is fat, falang is very fat". I'd be insulted... but well, what's the point? The thing is I am about foot taller that most other Laos people and the women are built like 13 years olds. So in comparison I undoubtedly look enormous... Still, you have to admire their honesty. After looking at the temple we headed back down to the road we had come in by, and came across a couple of monks smoking (uhuh) by the roadside. One of them spoke English very well and we got into a long conversation about his monkhood, how he wanted a foreign girlfriend when he finished as a novice and his plans to enter business when he concludes his studies. During the conversation I was passed a piece of sugar cane to chew on, and somehow during our meanderings I managed to offer Internet lessons to the monk. So at 7pm tonight I found myself in front of a computer giving him tips on how to best surf the web- including google. He took to it quickly, and was greatly intrigued by the whole thing. And thus teacher Jodi strikes again... So that way my day. As you might imagine I'm now quite tired and am looking forward to going to sleep. But it was a great day, and certainly the most rewarding of my trip so far... which just goes to show that the best surprises in life lie off the beaten track. |
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Nov 30, 1999